Friday, February 24, 2012

Delhi Darwaza is the main entrance to the old town of Farrukh Nagar. It is a much happening place with many shops around. 
Farrukh Nagar is some 30 Kms from Gurgoan but to most people this place is unheard off. This town in Gurgoan district is little affected by the corporate greed and expansion but it may soon fall away along with the charms of the 19th century world. Exploring this town is like going back to time on a time machine. It’s hard to believe what you see. So much of past remains in this town! Old entrance, busy streets, old shops, old buildings are all you see. It makes you wander why you have never heard of this place before. Farrukh Nagar was built by Faujdar Khan a governor of Mughal emperor Farrukhsiyar in 1732 and named after the Mughal emperor. He also built most of the important monuments like Sheesh mahal, Baoli and Jama Masjid which are popular attractions here.

 I first heard of Farrukh Nagar when I was planning a visit to Sultanpur National Park. To reach the park I had to take a bus to Farrukh Nagar and get down at Sultanpur, midway. Though the tickets are as cheap as Rs.18, the ride was comfortable and the view was good with lots of greenery and interesting huts and houses. The problem arose once I got down at Farrukh Nagar. I couldn’t avoid people’s stares because I had a DSLR camera around my arms. The locals are not used to seeing people on rucksack and cameras. It doesn’t happen in lots of places elsewhere in Rajasthan or Agra because they are used to seeing lots of tourists. Here they aren’t.
Delhi Darwaza is an important entrance to the old town. It is one of the three surviving gates. It's funny to see how an old gate like this can be used for various purposes. People still use it as the main entrance. Like the olden days, they still use it as a place to trade and meet people. There is also an old Mandir attached to the gate. It is as colorful as it can get with shops and people passing by along with bigger vehicles. 
Farrukh Nagar looks like a ghost town. I couldn't help but think of a scene from one of those Western movies, where the cowboy enters with his horse as the townsmen look in awe. Though there are lots of school kids and elderly, the town somehow looks forlorn with not too many youths. Most of the buildings are one storied and having survived the rubs of time they looks like gems. 
Sheesh Mahal was also built by Faujdar Khan in 1711. It was built in the Mughal style of architecture and was used as the main palace. Now, the palace complex is closed from the outside and the gate is locked with chains. An elderly man who confessed to be the caretaker said it has become a 'Sarkari' property but nothing much has been done. He unlocked the gate and told me to go over the place gingerly and all by myself. He didn't tell me that the place was infested with a raucous troop of monkeys. 
Sheesh Mahal is now left to the monkeys and parrots to look after. The monkeys here can be dangerous. They are not afraid of anything. One huge male monkey blocked my way and when I quietly tried to pass by he threatened me with a serious snarling. 
A Jama Masjid near the Sheesh Mahal. It must have been used as worship place for centuries. 
This small town knows how to keep the charms alive. Here the least happening place can fascinate you and spring surprises like this forgotten house by the small alley of the town. 
I've heard so much about the aggressive nature of the Haryanvis and it stays true for many people living in NH-1 but people here are friendly and kind. I was reluctant to talk to anyone at first but everyone here wants to talk to you and have their photos taken. After sometime it became a burden to stop at every shop and talk about the purpose of my visit. This guy (wearing white) took me to some places I might be interested. Fruits are cheaper here so I bought some fruits and shared it with him. He just gave me a blank look and said, 'I should be treating you, not otherwise. Please have something to eat and leave.'
Sethani ki Chhatri is the least cared monument. It is in serious stage of damage and nothing is being done to restore it. The locals told me that it was used as a rest house in olden days. It dates back to 1504. The paintings on the ceilings especially on the upper room are sophisticated and glow nicely in the evening light.
Baoli is a complex structure and I had not seen anything like this before. It looks insignificant from outside but once inside through an underground tunnel, the place expands. The caretaker came by briefly to greet me but he went back to nearby tea stall as his tea was getting cold. He told me that it was a bathing place for the Royal women. There used to be a tunnel that took them straight to their palace inside Sheesh Mahal. But the tunnel is now blocked. It still leaves so much room for imagination.
Being so close to Sultanpur National Park, one can plan a trip along with it. It is a must place to visit for culture and history lovers. There's a whole new world waiting for you to explore. 

How to Reach: Take a bus from Gurgaon bus stand to Farrukh Nagar for Rs 18. 


  1. wow..this is another world altogether!!!

  2. @Shooting Star...Yes Indeed 'a whole new world' poised with old world charms!

  3. I would really like your post ,it would really explain each and every point clearly well thanks for sharing.
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  4. Some of best historical places are present in Pakistan you have to get cheap flights to pakistan to explore those places which are very precious and very unseen by the tourists.

  5. Farrukh Nagar is one of the ancient cities in India.

    Travel to Farrukh Nagar

  6. So many historical places in India are now forgotten by us and our Govt... So sad...